![]() One square is utterly gorgeous and filled with alfresco cafés. ![]() Walking the streets of Spanish colonial, art deco, art nouveau and modern buildings is like stepping across the black and white squares of a checkerboard. And on her 500th birthday this year, she shows no sign of dimming attraction. From the pirates who hovered at the mouth of her ample bay wanting to snatch the loot of Spain’s New World colonies, to today’s visitors who swoon at the sight of candy colored American cars and perked-up plazas, she’s a magnet.
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